23/07/2009

On Raf Simons new ways...


Raf Simons SS10

There's been a topic discussed by most of fashion editors and "fashion fans" ( just trying to avoid the other word, you know the one...) during last Paris Mens Fashion Week, and it wasn't about Tisci's Jacksoneries but on what is going with Raf Simons.
The cult dark teenager's outfit provider ( I always thought that camden market was a less onerous alternative for sweatshirt with bauhaus patches, but anyway...) apparently turned his back to his fans and decided to "design for people that can aford his leather jackets", but Simons has been taking a more tailored path for a little while now, leaving his black tie-dies and patches, junky vampire hoodies and skinniest jeans to his second line, and is now "growing up as a natural evolution toward a more refined design". There were plenty of reactions to his SS10 show, that started with a new PR agent, leaving a hole in his former PR's offices in Paris, and there was this big ad-like banner at the entrance of the show located in the how bourgeois 5th district, breaking with a tradition of modern and industrial previous show locations, and to finish you up there was the omnipresence the LOGOS, yes so much of it that it needed to be in bold !
A remarkable italian fashion journalist spit it out to me as "the new Cavalli" and others claimed " how genius Mr.Simons is.". Mmmh... I don't know what really happened to Mr.Simons but what I know is that the long time customers of his were never suburbian working class teenagers ( they would never pay a cut out sweat-shirt that price !) but are a group of people that can easily buy a couple of his leather jackets every season but will certainly not anymore, for a while a least, betrayal takes time to pass away you know.
But the far best analysis of this whole situation is the one of VICE Uk fashion writer and The Moment blog contributor Daryoush Haj-Najafi :
"Paris’s fashion scene is home to a lot of freaky skinny guys with asymmetrical hair. They got all worked up and angry with Raf Simons this fashion week because Raf had decided to disown his role as every fashion kid’s hero futurist, and told everyone he just wanted to make fashion for rich people. Everyone who works in fashion or thinks they do has been talking about this. Of course if those asymmetric kids knew their Soviet history they’d know that Trotsky (he came up with the idea of “permanent revolution”) said in the twenties that those Italian futurist dudes who thought art should be about machines, war, and speed, were just angry because they weren’t the aristocracy yet, and they would have seen this coming."
http://www.viceland.com/fashion/2009/07/what-will-make-me-want-to-kiss-myself/

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