The ANDAM award has been quite criticized this last year for not helping the upcoming french designers, even Anna Wintour mentioned it to the french ministry of the Industry during a well publicized lunch. True that giving the price consecutively to Richard Nicoll, Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon, ANDAM was looking for gaining an international influence more than promoting new french talents.This year, probably in reaction to many critical comments, Carine Roitfeld joined in as president of the jury and 3 on the 6 nominated are Paris based designers competing for the 220 000 Euros award. Still we're missing 2 upcoming Paris based designers that were praised in the french and international press, Maxime Simoens and Anthony Vaccarello, they could have done a good use of that money too, but c'est la vie.... also we can note that the accessory designers section, which used to compete for a smaller award has been erased this season.
So far my heart goes for Calla Haynes with her label CALLA, the most interesting and fresh collection, a promising talent on an international scale, now it's up to the jury to decide, and that includes Alber Elbaz, Hilary Alexander, Sarah Lerfel ( Colette ), Jefferson Hack, Virginie Mouzat ( Figaro ), and Jean-Jacques Picart. Who ever wins, let's hope it will mark a change in the way awards, press and buyers from France tend to ignore their homeland designers and give a kick of energy and hope in the sclerotic french fashion industry.
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