SPY NUMBERS & SKATEBOARDERS

A video we would have loved to see at the SPY NUMBERS exhibition

The Spy Numbers exhibition at Palais De Tokyo had a very attractive and promising content with it's nebula of spy number stations, coded transcription formula and old war sci-fi gear photographies. Well, the result is a very mediocer exhibition with not even half ot the artworks you would expect to be presented and none of the photographs printed in the museum's magazine. Anyway, sun is on Paris these days and the outside of the monumental stalinian-like architectured Palais De Tokyo is after all a very pleasant place for a quiet drink. It also gives a view on the many skateboarders gathering every week end at the buiding feet, and Manfred Unger couldn't help documenting the rests of a once subculture youth movement now turned into a soda selling accessory. There are days like these in Paris, and it's mostly sundays.

Another video not seen at Palais De Tokyo

Photos by Manfred Unger

Manfred Unger's "Of The Day"

Monday 6th July 09
Suslik, Paris

Life Isn't Easy In Germany - August Sander's highly inspirational documents

August Sanders was not,as last rain borned people migh think,The Sartorialist of his time, he aimed to built a total document, portraying the different social groups in their distinctive, mostly work or status related, outfits. Not quite like the italianish 3 pieces suits with wrist thick matching tie offently spotted on mister Schuman blog.

All pictures courtesy of August Sander's estate

Manfred Unger's "Of The Day"

Saturday 4th July 09
A Good Day, Paris

Brutality in Pale Color - More of OLIVIER BORDE Garde-Robe Men's SS10

Manfred Unger's "Of The Day"

Friday 3rd July 09
Cables, Paris

OLIVIER BORDE GARDE-ROBE SS10

Russian Love Their Children Too - Gosha RUBCHINSKIY Menswear Collection

Gosha Rubchinskiy is a 25 years old russian menswear designer. His first collection entitled "Evil Empire" was made for and dedicated to youth, teenagers and children of the 90's : a new kind people, those who were born after the colapse of of the USSR. Overflowed with information and new possibilities to found a post soviet society. Choice was at all personnal, looking for the right people, the right music and the right style. Following for his second collection with "Growing and Expanding" Rubchinskiy pursued his teenagers study focusing this time on political and religious views. Creating a new hero who as a result of newly discovered democraty mixed with russian tradition is into orthodoxy and Pelevin's novels, Bible and Runes, Shamanism and Numerology.
Mixing the wardrobe of new youth movement ( at least new for Russia ) like Punks, Football fans and Skin-heads, Orthodoxy and Satanism, Rubchinskiy made a look that is as multidirectionnal as it goes in russian teenager's mind.

All images from fanzine edited and published by Gosha Rubchinskiy

Manfred Unger's "Of The Day"

Thursday 2nd July 09
Flag, Paris

There's No Shuffle Here - Romain KREMER Men's SS10

Almost the only french menswear designer who hasn't fled the country comes again with this futuristic and still mostly trousers free collection. Metallic colors, round cut out jackets and panties, face masking t-shirts are bringing a certain sexyness to the ill-fited collection.

Backstage

All photos by Manfred Unger

White Solstice Knights - HUGO by Hugo Boss Men's SS10

For Summer 2010 Bruno Pieters continued on reviving Hugo Boss with an angulous and almost monochromatic collection.
Bright start with blinding white suits, here transparent on the shirt or there paired with shorts but always sharply executed with the traditional know-how of the german house. Following is a turn to blue, navy double breasted jacket on shorts going onto ice pale blue, sometimes stripped and then enhanced by bright red or by a touch of mysterious gold. Pieters then ends the dream with a series of black tuxedo, worn on bare skin with no bow ties nor cummerband, suits being tottaly relieved of all the usual stiffness. With this demonstration of his skills, Pieters, playing with the rigor and the airiness, the luminous and the obscure, shows that the golden days of belgium designers are not only Past.

Pictures from www.wwd.com